Home-grown tomatoes are the best! Here are 10 tips to make sure your tomato crop is the best ever.Read more »
Rust (Puccinia allii) is a fungal disease that attacks garlic, onions, chives, shallots and other alliums. Infestation becomes apparent in mid to late spring when weather is moist and warm. Yellowish orange flecks soon turn to bright orange pustules on the undersides of leaves. Rust is debilitating to the plant and can result in smaller, inferior garlic bulbs, so it’s important to deal with rust before it can take hold and spread. Prevention is the best method.Read more »
No matter what you grow, vegetables or flowers, in a spacious garden or a pot on a balcony, the first thing you need is good soil. It took me years to understand this, and now “Soil First” is my gardening mantra.
To read more about improving your garden soil, click on the picture above.Read more »
Sometimes gardening is just so confusing! Want a winter garden? Plant in July. Want tulips and narcissus in spring? Plant in September and October. That’s just how it is: for some garden rewards, you have to plan ahead. So, it’s time to plant spring-flowering bulbs for a colourful display next year. Bulbs flower as early […]Read more »
Now that that summer has arrived, it’s time to think about your winter garden. Yes, that’s right: if you want to extend your vegetable harvest into the fall and even right through the winter, you need to start planning for it now.
The biggest mistake new gardeners make is not starting early enough. Come September or October, it’s too late to plant a winter garden. Some plants, like kale, leeks, mustards, carrots and beets, can be planted now for winter eating. Since you’ll will be eating these plants throughout the winter, they must be full size by Halloween, so make sure you plant your winter harvest garden no later than mid-August. July is even better.Read more »
What can you grow in a 12 foot by 3 foot raised bed? Let me tell you – an awful lot. Right now this little bed has rhubarb, strawberries, bush beans, cucumbers, zucchini, green onions, beets, several kinds of lettuce, Swiss chard, arugula, dill and spinach! With some careful succession planning, it will also produce garlic, sprouting broccoli and kale. Read more …Read more »
I don’t know about you, but I can never get enough advice on growing great tomatoes. Over the years, we’ve put a number of articles on our website and in our newsletters. Click here and here to read them.
Recently we came across this superb collection of advice and tips from Mother Earth News that we thought we should pass on to all you tomato lovers out there.Read more »
Who hasn’t experienced stiff and sore muscles after a long day in the garden? With a gardener’s enthusiasm to get into the garden – especially after this long cold winter – it’s easy to overdo it.
Here are a few tips from the BC & Yukon Divison of The Arthritis Society that make sense for all gardeners.Read more »
Potatoes are one of the easiest vegetables to grow. Set the tubers approximately 3”-4″ deep and 12” apart in prepared trenches spaced 24” apart.
Or use a potato grow bag. You will have to plant the potatoes a little closer, no more than 4-6 in the bottom of the bag. Plants will emerge around 2-3 weeks after planting. When plants are 1′ tall, hill-up the soil 6-8″ around the plants. It’s ok to cover green leaves! Straw or grass mulch also works well. Don’t water after planting until the plants have emerged. For more information on how to grow potatoes and descriptions of this year’s varieties, click here.
The technique recommended for years has been growing the plants on through the summer outdoors, and then inducing dormancy by stopping watering in the fall and placing them in a dry cool spot indoors for 10 to 12 weeks. This will encourage the bulb to bloom again around Christmas.
However, for bigger, healthier plants, some experts recommend allowing the bulb to continue growing vigorously as long as possible, so it will reward you with better blooms in January or February.Read more »